In the precincts of the police station at Muzaffarabad in Pakistan Administered Kashmir, stands one small section of a wall, the only remains of the historic Chatti Pathshahi Gurdwara. The hills of Muzaffarabad once had a large Sikh population for whom this historic gurdwara held a special place because it was built in the memory of the visit of Guru Hargobind, the sixth Sikh Guru.
Today, Kashmir reels under a nightmare and amongst all the noise, seldom do people reflect on the fateful day of 21st October 1947. The day, the tribals from the north-west frontier attacked Muzaffarabad, massacring the Sikhs and Hindus, and in destruction, even terrorizing the local Muslims who voiced against the inhumanity of ethnic cleansing. I am a descendant of the family that first-hand experienced this brutality. It was the day ‘Kashmiriyat’, a term that once described the secularity of the region, died forever! The inhuman act seeded on this day, today continues to spiral Kashmir into the web of ethnic politics.
Seven decades later, I was the first in our extended family to return to Muzaffarabad, for no other reason but to touch its earth. Here, I stood as a mere observer gazing at the last standing wall of the gurdwara, built from the earth, merging into the earth, reminding me that I too will soon succumb to the same fate – emerging from the earth, will merge back into it, so can I give up my pride and remain a mere observer!
In that moment, I was reminded of Baba Bullhe Shah’s words,
Maati Mati Nu Maaran Laggi, Maati Dey Hathiyaar
Jiss Maati Par Bahuti Maati, Tiss Maati Hankaar
Maathi Baag Bagicha Maati, Maati Di Gulzaar
Maati Maati Nu Vekhan Aayi, Maati Di Eh Bahaar
Hass Khed Murh Maati Hoee, Maati Paoo Pasaar
Bullha Eih Bujharat Bujho, Laah Siro Bhoe Maar
Earth strikes earth, using weapons of earth. Earth, which has plenty of earth on it, is proud of its identity!
Earth is a garden too, an orchard, a flower bed. Earth also comes out to look at the spring bestowed on the earth.
After laughing and playing, it once again turns to earth, when the earth stretches itself out. Bullha, if you can grasp this riddle, remove the pride of identity and throw it back on earth.
Photographed in Oct 2014, during the research for the book “LOST HERITAGE The Sikh Legacy in Pakistan”
